As a prelude to this trip report I feel as I need to provide a little upfront information. My wife and I had chosen this time of year to go as it was our 15 year wedding anniversary. We kicked around a lot of ideas for an anniversary get away but we decided on this one due to the adventure aspect of it. This was our first trip ever for the sole purpose of backpacking/hiking. We have been preparing for this trip for months. These preparations included purchasing gear, hiking/backpacking in our local “flat” “oxygenated” state parks, performing countless hours of research about the park, asking questions and getting advice from people such as yourselves and lastly just getting mentally prepared. When you have never attempted something like this your mind tends to worry about a lot of things that probably aren’t worth worrying about. The trip itinerary was to stay at the Glacier Gorge campsite for two nights and the Andrews Creek campsite for two nights. (Let’s just say, plans change.) So, now that you know a little about our trip preparations….on with the report!
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Our first backcountry adventure!
Started by
Johnkykong
, Oct 13 2006 01:19 PM
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#1
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:19 PM
#2
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:20 PM
Thursday, October 5th, 2006
This was our travel and acclimation day. We left our home near Blair, Nebraska at 7:00 a.m. CST and took Interstate 80 west. Since we couldn’t wait to get there we took the most direct route to Estes by veering southwest on Interstate 76 through Greeley and Loveland. The weather was great for driving and we made good time. We arrived at the east entrance to the Big Thompson Canyon around 1:30 p.m. MST. The trip through the canyon was beautiful. We saw or first wildlife here. There was a large herd of bighorn sheep down near the road about half-way through the canyon. We (as tourists do) pulled over and got some pictures. (and yes we were all the way off of the road!) From here we continued on to Estes. Or first stop was at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center and the Backcountry Office to pick up our backcountry permit. It was nice to talk with the ranger there. He was very informative and provided us with as much information as he could to make our trip successful. We knew we were in the mountains however as we both became winded on the short walk down to the office! From here we headed back towards Estes and made a stop at The Warming House along the way. This was the best stop we made the entire trip and I cannot say enough good or heap enough praise on the staff there, especially John. The initial reason for our stop was to rent some trekking poles. We had never purchased any as we wanted to give them a try before spending the cash. John walked us through all of the options and told us he would apply our rental fee to the purchase price if we decided we wanted some. Let’s put it this way, we bought them. They proved to be invaluable on our hike and I couldn’t imagine hiking without them. As it turned out, John was heading up to Black Lake the next day to do some fishing so he said he would say hi if he saw us on the trail. We left and headed over to Aspen Winds where we had one of the spa suites reserved for the night. Again, what a great place to stay. The room was fantastic and it was nice to be able to go out and sit along the stream. We spent about an hour just hanging out and then went into town for a bite to eat. We went to the Big Horn Restaurant and had a great meal. We both had the chicken fried steak dinner since we decided we should feel up before we hit the trails! The food was fantastic and more than either of us could eat. I highly recommend it. We then headed to Main Street for a quick bit of shopping. Most of the stores were closing up but as true Husker fans do, we made it to the Big Red of the Rockies store. We had a nice talk with Jesse Kosch, the store owner and a former Nebraska player. We continued our tour but couldn’t make it past Grandma’s Mountain Cookies. I wish I had one right now! From here we headed back to Aspen Winds and called it a night.
This was our travel and acclimation day. We left our home near Blair, Nebraska at 7:00 a.m. CST and took Interstate 80 west. Since we couldn’t wait to get there we took the most direct route to Estes by veering southwest on Interstate 76 through Greeley and Loveland. The weather was great for driving and we made good time. We arrived at the east entrance to the Big Thompson Canyon around 1:30 p.m. MST. The trip through the canyon was beautiful. We saw or first wildlife here. There was a large herd of bighorn sheep down near the road about half-way through the canyon. We (as tourists do) pulled over and got some pictures. (and yes we were all the way off of the road!) From here we continued on to Estes. Or first stop was at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center and the Backcountry Office to pick up our backcountry permit. It was nice to talk with the ranger there. He was very informative and provided us with as much information as he could to make our trip successful. We knew we were in the mountains however as we both became winded on the short walk down to the office! From here we headed back towards Estes and made a stop at The Warming House along the way. This was the best stop we made the entire trip and I cannot say enough good or heap enough praise on the staff there, especially John. The initial reason for our stop was to rent some trekking poles. We had never purchased any as we wanted to give them a try before spending the cash. John walked us through all of the options and told us he would apply our rental fee to the purchase price if we decided we wanted some. Let’s put it this way, we bought them. They proved to be invaluable on our hike and I couldn’t imagine hiking without them. As it turned out, John was heading up to Black Lake the next day to do some fishing so he said he would say hi if he saw us on the trail. We left and headed over to Aspen Winds where we had one of the spa suites reserved for the night. Again, what a great place to stay. The room was fantastic and it was nice to be able to go out and sit along the stream. We spent about an hour just hanging out and then went into town for a bite to eat. We went to the Big Horn Restaurant and had a great meal. We both had the chicken fried steak dinner since we decided we should feel up before we hit the trails! The food was fantastic and more than either of us could eat. I highly recommend it. We then headed to Main Street for a quick bit of shopping. Most of the stores were closing up but as true Husker fans do, we made it to the Big Red of the Rockies store. We had a nice talk with Jesse Kosch, the store owner and a former Nebraska player. We continued our tour but couldn’t make it past Grandma’s Mountain Cookies. I wish I had one right now! From here we headed back to Aspen Winds and called it a night.
#3
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:23 PM
Friday, October 6th, 2006
We were up early as our bodies were still on Central Time. We decided to get up and find some breakfast before we headed to the trail. One thing became obvious, Estes was a late rising town. We couldn’t find a restaurant open to eat in before 6:30 a.m. We finally just had a couple snacks and headed towards the park. We saw a coyote and some deer on the road near Aspen Winds so we were careful driving while it was still dark.
We were the first to arrive at the Glacier Gorge trailhead. The temperature was nice, around 52 degrees, but the wind was blowing making it feel much colder. It didn’t take long for us to have our first challenges. My wife hit her head on the hatch door of our Jeep Cherokee and about knocked herself out while we were getting our packs ready. Once she got her wits back we got our packs on for the hike. My wife’s pack was bothering her from the time she put it on. We couldn’t tell if it was the added weight or if it just wasn’t adjusted correctly. We tried everything to make her more comfortable but not much helped. She decided to tough it out and we began our hike in around 7:15 a.m. It immediately became clear to us that all of our flatland preparations still couldn’t prepare us for mountain hiking. Although the scenery was beautiful, the trip in was more of an endurance test for us! We got to within half a mile from the campsite when our new friend John from The Warming House caught up to us. At this point my wife was really hurting from her pack. He checked everything he could and did all he could to make her more comfortable. One thing he asked was if we had our Osprey packs hip belts custom molded. As we had ordered them off of the internet we had not done this. He said this was a must and may be part of the problem with hers. He told us that when we dropped our hiking poles off back at the shop that he would mold them for us at no charge even though they usually charge $75 each. This was an offer we were more than happy to take advantage of! He eventually went on his way to do some fishing at Black Lake and we continued on to our camp site. This last half of a mile was as challenging as anything I had done in my life. It wasn’t that the trail itself was hard, it was just a combination of all of the factors had my pretty well whipped! Once we saw the log bridge to camp a great feeling of relief and accomplishment came over both of us. We spent the next hour or so setting up camp and resting. Even setting up camp in this altitude became a challenge as my head was spinning. Eventually we went down and sat by the Glacier Creek. I did some fishing and my wife watched them swim away from my lure. I realized I wasn’t much of a trout fisherman either. We enjoyed our time down there; it was very peaceful and relaxing. Around evening time, John came back down from Black and stopped by to check on us. He stayed about a half hour. We talked about all sorts of things and he gave us lots of advice and constructive criticism. Again, it was all very much appreciated! After he left we up and made dinner and then got to bed early to recover!
We were up early as our bodies were still on Central Time. We decided to get up and find some breakfast before we headed to the trail. One thing became obvious, Estes was a late rising town. We couldn’t find a restaurant open to eat in before 6:30 a.m. We finally just had a couple snacks and headed towards the park. We saw a coyote and some deer on the road near Aspen Winds so we were careful driving while it was still dark.
We were the first to arrive at the Glacier Gorge trailhead. The temperature was nice, around 52 degrees, but the wind was blowing making it feel much colder. It didn’t take long for us to have our first challenges. My wife hit her head on the hatch door of our Jeep Cherokee and about knocked herself out while we were getting our packs ready. Once she got her wits back we got our packs on for the hike. My wife’s pack was bothering her from the time she put it on. We couldn’t tell if it was the added weight or if it just wasn’t adjusted correctly. We tried everything to make her more comfortable but not much helped. She decided to tough it out and we began our hike in around 7:15 a.m. It immediately became clear to us that all of our flatland preparations still couldn’t prepare us for mountain hiking. Although the scenery was beautiful, the trip in was more of an endurance test for us! We got to within half a mile from the campsite when our new friend John from The Warming House caught up to us. At this point my wife was really hurting from her pack. He checked everything he could and did all he could to make her more comfortable. One thing he asked was if we had our Osprey packs hip belts custom molded. As we had ordered them off of the internet we had not done this. He said this was a must and may be part of the problem with hers. He told us that when we dropped our hiking poles off back at the shop that he would mold them for us at no charge even though they usually charge $75 each. This was an offer we were more than happy to take advantage of! He eventually went on his way to do some fishing at Black Lake and we continued on to our camp site. This last half of a mile was as challenging as anything I had done in my life. It wasn’t that the trail itself was hard, it was just a combination of all of the factors had my pretty well whipped! Once we saw the log bridge to camp a great feeling of relief and accomplishment came over both of us. We spent the next hour or so setting up camp and resting. Even setting up camp in this altitude became a challenge as my head was spinning. Eventually we went down and sat by the Glacier Creek. I did some fishing and my wife watched them swim away from my lure. I realized I wasn’t much of a trout fisherman either. We enjoyed our time down there; it was very peaceful and relaxing. Around evening time, John came back down from Black and stopped by to check on us. He stayed about a half hour. We talked about all sorts of things and he gave us lots of advice and constructive criticism. Again, it was all very much appreciated! After he left we up and made dinner and then got to bed early to recover!
#4
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:25 PM
Saturday, October 7th, 2006
We had a good nights sleep and we were ready for our hike to Black Lake this morning. The hike from our campsite to Black Lake was somewhat challenging for us but much more manageable since we didn’t have to carry our large packs. The weather had turned mostly cloudy and it was much cooler than the day before. Clouds were starting to lower to the mountain peaks and were a sign of the weather for the rest of the trip. We were amazed at just how many steps were on the way to Black. The altitude change in such a short distance was not something we were used to. The temperature cooled dramatically as we went up and the views just got better and better. We crossed the outlet stream from Black and went around to the right side of the lake. It was very peaceful as we were the only people in site. I again tried my luck catching a trout with no success. As we sat and had a snack it began to sleet on us. As it began to pick up we decided it was probably best to head back to camp.
By the time we got back the sleet had stopped and the day stayed mostly dry, just cooler. I went back to the stream to try my luck with the trout one more time and this time I got one! He was little but it was a trout!
After a lot of relaxing we retired to the tent to listen to the Nebraska vs. Iowa State football game. I’m not sure there is anything more amazing than lying in a tent at 10,000 feet and being able to find your home teams game on the radio. Just for the record, Nebraska won 28-14.
This is where our trip plans changed. As we sat and talked we just felt that maybe we were more of a dayhiker breed. We enjoyed everything but felt like we had too much time on our hands. Although hiking was an option, it was just too demanding for us to do too many hours a day of. That being said, we ended up with many hours a day with not much to do. We agreed to change our plans and forego our nights at the Andrews Creek campsite. We decided that we would hike down the next day and stay in a regular campground, hoping to find a somewhat private walk-in site to stay at. This would give us access to our car so that we could do other hikes, go to Estes for entertainment/food if we wanted, or to just drive around and see the sites. As I said earlier, plans change…..
We had a good nights sleep and we were ready for our hike to Black Lake this morning. The hike from our campsite to Black Lake was somewhat challenging for us but much more manageable since we didn’t have to carry our large packs. The weather had turned mostly cloudy and it was much cooler than the day before. Clouds were starting to lower to the mountain peaks and were a sign of the weather for the rest of the trip. We were amazed at just how many steps were on the way to Black. The altitude change in such a short distance was not something we were used to. The temperature cooled dramatically as we went up and the views just got better and better. We crossed the outlet stream from Black and went around to the right side of the lake. It was very peaceful as we were the only people in site. I again tried my luck catching a trout with no success. As we sat and had a snack it began to sleet on us. As it began to pick up we decided it was probably best to head back to camp.
By the time we got back the sleet had stopped and the day stayed mostly dry, just cooler. I went back to the stream to try my luck with the trout one more time and this time I got one! He was little but it was a trout!
After a lot of relaxing we retired to the tent to listen to the Nebraska vs. Iowa State football game. I’m not sure there is anything more amazing than lying in a tent at 10,000 feet and being able to find your home teams game on the radio. Just for the record, Nebraska won 28-14.
This is where our trip plans changed. As we sat and talked we just felt that maybe we were more of a dayhiker breed. We enjoyed everything but felt like we had too much time on our hands. Although hiking was an option, it was just too demanding for us to do too many hours a day of. That being said, we ended up with many hours a day with not much to do. We agreed to change our plans and forego our nights at the Andrews Creek campsite. We decided that we would hike down the next day and stay in a regular campground, hoping to find a somewhat private walk-in site to stay at. This would give us access to our car so that we could do other hikes, go to Estes for entertainment/food if we wanted, or to just drive around and see the sites. As I said earlier, plans change…..
#5
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:28 PM
Sunday, October 8th, 2006
During the night the sleet and freezing rain caught up to us again. We woke up to an icy tent and snow falling. Not knowing the forecast we decided it was best to pack up early and get back to the car. The clouds were extremely low most of the day and our campsite was definitely in them. To us, this was the most beautiful and fun day of the trip. We didn’t have any of the problems going out that we had on the way up. Our packs were lighter and we were going down so I’m sure that helped. In general, I think we were just better at it and probably a little more acclimated. The snow falling and the fog on Mills Lake was beautiful and we couldn’t hardly take enough pictures and video of it.
We saw many more things on the way down that I think we just missed on the way up due to our comfort level. Again, the hike down was as awesome of an experience as we’ve ever had. We met many people on our way down between Alberta Falls and the trailhead. It was Sunday and there were a lot of people on the trail.
When we made it back to the car it was still a relief to get those packs off! We went directly to the Backcountry Office to relinquish our nights at the Andrews Creek campsite. Once finished we went in search of a new camp site. After making our way through the hundred’s of cars looking at the elk we found our new spot to stay. We reserved Moraine Park #115 for the night. This site is tucked back off of the road approximately 50 yards. The elk were in the meadow right beside our tent. Although noisy they were a lot fun to watch. I would highly recommend this site!
The only problem we had today is that it was very wet and on the cool side with the high in the low 30’s. The mountains were all in the clouds so the views were not there. We started a fire to stay warm and eventually went to bed hoping the next day would be brighter and dryer.
During the night the sleet and freezing rain caught up to us again. We woke up to an icy tent and snow falling. Not knowing the forecast we decided it was best to pack up early and get back to the car. The clouds were extremely low most of the day and our campsite was definitely in them. To us, this was the most beautiful and fun day of the trip. We didn’t have any of the problems going out that we had on the way up. Our packs were lighter and we were going down so I’m sure that helped. In general, I think we were just better at it and probably a little more acclimated. The snow falling and the fog on Mills Lake was beautiful and we couldn’t hardly take enough pictures and video of it.
We saw many more things on the way down that I think we just missed on the way up due to our comfort level. Again, the hike down was as awesome of an experience as we’ve ever had. We met many people on our way down between Alberta Falls and the trailhead. It was Sunday and there were a lot of people on the trail.
When we made it back to the car it was still a relief to get those packs off! We went directly to the Backcountry Office to relinquish our nights at the Andrews Creek campsite. Once finished we went in search of a new camp site. After making our way through the hundred’s of cars looking at the elk we found our new spot to stay. We reserved Moraine Park #115 for the night. This site is tucked back off of the road approximately 50 yards. The elk were in the meadow right beside our tent. Although noisy they were a lot fun to watch. I would highly recommend this site!
The only problem we had today is that it was very wet and on the cool side with the high in the low 30’s. The mountains were all in the clouds so the views were not there. We started a fire to stay warm and eventually went to bed hoping the next day would be brighter and dryer.
#6
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:30 PM
Monday, October 9th, 2006
As our luck usually goes, today was cooler and wetter than ever. We had another talk and decided we were going to give in to the weather. We packed up and decided to go on a quick road trip around Colorado finding a hotel to stay in along the way. As we were driving out of the park we saw a herd of deer and a pack of seven coyotes.
It is always fun to see the wildlife! Before we left town we stopped by The Warming House to drop off our rental poles and get our hip belts molded. John stayed true to his word and did this for us for free. This was a nearly hour long process. We ended up buying our new trekking poles there and we can’t wait to use them! Before leaving Estes I had to make a stop at the Estes Park Brewery. We ate lunch here and I bought a six pack (one bottle of each kind) to enjoy when we got home. The food we had was very good and tasted great after eating backcountry food for three days! We went South from Estes towards Idaho Springs and then west on Interstate 70 to Breckenridge. After looking around there we went on to Glenwood Springs where we spent the night. We ate here at the Glenwood Brewery and I would not recommend it. As you can tell, we have a thing for microbreweries! We ended up with a nice room at the Ramada, nothing fancy but much more comfortable than our wet and cold tent! The one thing we didn’t lose was the snow however. It seemed to be following us.
As our luck usually goes, today was cooler and wetter than ever. We had another talk and decided we were going to give in to the weather. We packed up and decided to go on a quick road trip around Colorado finding a hotel to stay in along the way. As we were driving out of the park we saw a herd of deer and a pack of seven coyotes.
It is always fun to see the wildlife! Before we left town we stopped by The Warming House to drop off our rental poles and get our hip belts molded. John stayed true to his word and did this for us for free. This was a nearly hour long process. We ended up buying our new trekking poles there and we can’t wait to use them! Before leaving Estes I had to make a stop at the Estes Park Brewery. We ate lunch here and I bought a six pack (one bottle of each kind) to enjoy when we got home. The food we had was very good and tasted great after eating backcountry food for three days! We went South from Estes towards Idaho Springs and then west on Interstate 70 to Breckenridge. After looking around there we went on to Glenwood Springs where we spent the night. We ate here at the Glenwood Brewery and I would not recommend it. As you can tell, we have a thing for microbreweries! We ended up with a nice room at the Ramada, nothing fancy but much more comfortable than our wet and cold tent! The one thing we didn’t lose was the snow however. It seemed to be following us.
#7
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:31 PM
Tuesday, October 10th, 2006
We got up and ate breakfast at a local diner before beginning our trip back towards Sidney, Nebraska. This was going to be our stopping point for the night with the added bonus of being able to shop at Cabela’s. We took the long way back via Steamboat Springs, Laramie, Wyoming and Cheyenne, Wyoming. There was a lot of snow along the way near Steamboat Springs. It was beautiful but slowed us down some. We saw hundreds of antelope along this route. That was kind of cool as we don’t see any around home. We got to Sidney around 7:00 p.m. and it was snowing there even! We went to dinner and to Cabela’s and then called it a day.
We got up and ate breakfast at a local diner before beginning our trip back towards Sidney, Nebraska. This was going to be our stopping point for the night with the added bonus of being able to shop at Cabela’s. We took the long way back via Steamboat Springs, Laramie, Wyoming and Cheyenne, Wyoming. There was a lot of snow along the way near Steamboat Springs. It was beautiful but slowed us down some. We saw hundreds of antelope along this route. That was kind of cool as we don’t see any around home. We got to Sidney around 7:00 p.m. and it was snowing there even! We went to dinner and to Cabela’s and then called it a day.
#8
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:32 PM
Wednesday, October 11th, 2006
This was the final leg of our journey. We basically went straight home except for one stop. You guessed it, another microbrewery. Kearney, Nebraska is home to the Thunderhead Brewery. We stopped in and had a great lunch and I bought a few more beers to bring home to try. We were back in Blair by 5:00 p.m. Now the work begins. It always seems that putting everything away and cleaning up after a trip can wear you out more than the trip itself. It is always nice to be home!
This was the final leg of our journey. We basically went straight home except for one stop. You guessed it, another microbrewery. Kearney, Nebraska is home to the Thunderhead Brewery. We stopped in and had a great lunch and I bought a few more beers to bring home to try. We were back in Blair by 5:00 p.m. Now the work begins. It always seems that putting everything away and cleaning up after a trip can wear you out more than the trip itself. It is always nice to be home!
#9
Johnkykong
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:33 PM
In Conclusion
We learned a lot. We would do a lot of things different. We had good times and not so good times. Would we do it again, absolutely! We would just do it differently. As I said before, I think we are more of the dayhiker type. We would probably plan on doing one, maybe two backcountry camping nights maximum. That would alleviate carrying in four days of gear, food, etc. and would hopefully alleviate some pack weight. We enjoyed the Moraine Park walk-in site and would do this again also. It was nice to be able to have a fire. I do wish we would have had a little nicer weather so we could have seen more of the mountains. We know they were there somewhere and I’m sure they are beautiful; they just didn’t show themselves to us. I guess that gives us even more to look for on our next trip!
We learned a lot. We would do a lot of things different. We had good times and not so good times. Would we do it again, absolutely! We would just do it differently. As I said before, I think we are more of the dayhiker type. We would probably plan on doing one, maybe two backcountry camping nights maximum. That would alleviate carrying in four days of gear, food, etc. and would hopefully alleviate some pack weight. We enjoyed the Moraine Park walk-in site and would do this again also. It was nice to be able to have a fire. I do wish we would have had a little nicer weather so we could have seen more of the mountains. We know they were there somewhere and I’m sure they are beautiful; they just didn’t show themselves to us. I guess that gives us even more to look for on our next trip!
#10
Bill 007
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:37 PM
QUOTE (Johnkykong @ Oct 13 2006, 02:33 PM)
Yep! That's how it begins! Then before you know it - your addicted!
Bill
#11
Aaron
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 01:37 PM
Great report! I talked with John the week before about our trip up to Black Lake and beyond and picked his brain about Italy and Green, etc. Perhaps I planted the seed for him going to Black Lake the weekend you were there 
You're right, John is a cool guy.
--Aaron
You're right, John is a cool guy. --Aaron
#12
DeeCeeM
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 02:25 PM
Thanks for sharing your trip with us. Sorry the weather was a bummer, but that's just all the more reason to go back.
#13
R from A
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 02:41 PM
Love the pic of the coyotes on the log! I highly recommend your 'plan B' for the future of doing primarily day hikes with a backcountry hike mixed in...it's a strategy that has served me well over the years.
#14
B-Jay
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 02:50 PM
Happy 15th wedding anniversary!
You certainly picked a great spot to celebrate.
I enjoyed reading your trip report and the pictures were amazing. So many times people only take pictures when the sun is shining and the weather is nice, but you captured the beauty of the park in the not so nice weather times. Good job!
You certainly picked a great spot to celebrate.
I enjoyed reading your trip report and the pictures were amazing. So many times people only take pictures when the sun is shining and the weather is nice, but you captured the beauty of the park in the not so nice weather times. Good job!
#15
kylekadekallie
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Posted 13 October 2006 - 03:05 PM
Thanks for the report. It is too bad the weather was not nicer for you but RMNP appears to be beautiful regardless of weather. The only part I did not like about your report was a reminder of the ISU-Nebraska score. 
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