16 replies to this topic

[Andy]

Smudge, Fabio and I hauled ourselves up Dream Weaver Couloir Saturday. Movie: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/1movie.php?movieid=16.

[Aaron]

OH NO....earworm!! You just had to do it didn't you

Cool video and report as always Andy!

--Aaron

[retlod]

Nice!

[weatherbe]

Nice video Andy. Your transitions were well-done. Thanks for sharing!

Weather

[Pretzel]

Another Sweet Film.. I like the "Spicy" section... Spicy for you guys must be pretty intense...

[Andy]

Another Sweet Film.. I like the "Spicy" section... Spicy for you guys must be pretty intense...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah that section was cool. Smudge breezed right through it - making it look easy - but it kinda threw me for a loop the first time. It was this kinda narrow chimney like thing that got dead vertical (maybe even a little overhanging for the last 5 feet). It was a little counter intuitive in that the higher up into it you got the less you could reach above with your ice tool and the more awkward the swing got. I had to back off and make a second run at it before I could figure it out. Lots of fun!

[Andy]

Nice video Andy.  Your transitions were well-done.  Thanks for sharing!

Weather

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Thanks. Are you referring to the soundtrack? The brilliant idea of using the Gary Wright tune was smudge's - I can't take credit for that. It brings a grin to my face whenever I hear it! My wife was rolling her eyes all day yesterday as I blasted the soundtrack while editing the movie.

[Jo]

Wow! Luke and I just finished watching the movie (Luke was fascinated!). I'm very impressed - again!

Couple of questions: what does Grade III, A13-, M2+ mean? And did you go backdown by the same route? That would be even more terrifying to me - at least when you're going up you don't have to look down

Jo

[smudge]

like I said..."This climb is kicking way too much ass" ...so is your video...well done amigo!

[smudge]

[Andy]

Wow! Luke and I just finished watching the movie (Luke was fascinated!). I'm very impressed - again!

Couple of questions: what does Grade III, A13-, M2+ mean? And did you go backdown by the same route? That would be even more terrifying to me - at least when you're going up you don't have to look down 

Jo

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Grade III refers to how serious the route is (how much time and effort it takes and how dangerous it is). Kieners is grade II. The big face on Mount Alice is Grade IV. I don't think anybody has ever climbed a Grade VII.

AI3- is the difficulty of the ice. (AI stands for alpine ice as opposed to WI for waterfall ice.) Here is one interpretation of the ice ratings:

1 Walking up with crampons. No tools required.
2 A pitch of 60º-70º ice, reasonably consistent, with few short steep steps. Only one tool is needed. Good protection and belays.
3 Sustained 70º-80º ice, usually thick and solid. May contain short, steep sections, but will have good resting places and offer good protection and belays.
4 Sustained 75º-85º ice, separated by good belays, or a less steep pitch with significant vertical sections. Generally good quality ice, offering satisfactory protection.
5 A noticeably more strenuous pitch of good but steep (85º-90º) ice.
6 A very steep, strenuous pitch with few stances for rest. The ice may not be of top quality and protection may be poor. A high level of skill and strength is required.
7 An overhanging, strenuous pitch with few resting places and often

The M2+ rating refers to the difficulty of the mixed climbing - this is a relatively new rating system where good concensus has not yet been reached. I believe the hardest ever mixed climb is M14 or thereabouts.

[weatherbe]

Hey Andy, actually for both video and audio. Since I do a lot of videography for the TV station, transitions are vital to our shoots. You had some really nice transitions in your scenes. I did like the audio transitions too. Is this the 3 chip camera that you bought?

Weather

Thanks.  Are you referring to the soundtrack?  The brilliant idea of using the Gary Wright tune was smudge's - I can't take credit for that.  It brings a grin to my face whenever I hear it!  My wife was rolling her eyes all day yesterday as I blasted the soundtrack while editing the movie.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[Andy]

Is this the 3 chip camera that you bought?

Weather

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Yeah - a shot with a Panasonic GS150 (using the default settings). Michael shot with his Sony (not sure what model he has). Unfortunately Michael accidentally messed up the settings on his camera early in the climb so a lot of his footage looks too bright and washed out. The "spicy scene" is definitely my favorite clip of the movie though!

[foxfire]

Thanks Andy! Very cool! Fox

[Marvman]

Once again, big thanks to you guys for increasing the "pucker factor" around here....

Marvman
(they make me dizzy)