24 replies to this topic

[Mr. Jinks]

On Saturday, July 9, 2011, Pip and I set out to climb Chiefs Head from Glacier Gorge.

Peri dropped us off at the Glacier Gorge trailhead at 5:15 a.m.

We made it to Mills Lake in 45 minutes and to Black Lake in about two hours.

The climb of Chiefs Head from Glacier Gorge is a steep snow ascent up the couloir between Pagoda and Chiefs Head that you have seen in a thousand pictures



Pip headed toward Green Lake in upper Glacier Gorge



Getting closer



Above Green Lake approaching the couloir



SUV size rockfall between Chiefs Head and the Spearhead



A closer look...those are some big rocks!



At the base of the couloir we strapped on our crampons and began the ascent...it would get a lot steeper!



Plunging the ice axe



Not yet halfway up (Notice Green and "Little Italy" below)



Philip took this picture looking back at me by looking down between his legs



Continued...

Edited by Mr. Jinks, 17 July 2011 - 05:50 PM.

[Mr. Jinks]

Getting up there



About two thirds of the way up we transitioned onto the rock, but eventually we had get back on the snow.
Here Philip is putting his crampons back on.



Philip leads the way back onto the snow



The tricky part is getting out into the deeper snow where you can get a good purchase with your ice axe.



Looking back down into the couloir from whence we came.



Looking up toward the summit of Chiefs Head (still out of sight) from the Pagoda - Chiefs Head saddle



On the summit!



Pip and his old man standing on the Chiefs Head



Having reached the summit, I was not all that excited about going back down the couloir. I'm sure we could have done it, but it would have been a bit unnerving. So I decided we would make a change of plans and climb down the more gentle west side of Chiefs Head and hike out to Wild Basin trailhead. We spent a half an hour or so on the summit. (I was looking over the map and trying to plot our course; Philip was sound asleep!) The only problem was Miss Lucy (Peri) was expecting us at the Glacier Gorge trailhead, but I hoped to be able to reach her by cellphone at some point during the hike. As it turned out we never had any cellphone signal.


(L-R) Lion Lake 1 and Lion Lake 2...I'm aiming for the east side of Lion Lake 1.



A magnificent shortcut! We found about three opportunities to glissade down Chiefs Head.



Looking over at Boulder Grand Pass and rugged Mount Alice



Our plan was to climb down onto the tundra and then down the scree slope...a plan that worked out just fine.



Continued...

Edited by Mr. Jinks, 17 July 2011 - 05:56 PM.

[Mr. Jinks]

Heading down the scree slope



Screeing


Looking back up at Chiefs Head



Still working our way down



Lion Lake No. 1



From here is was just matter of hiking out to Wild Basin trailhead...which turned out to be more difficult than I assumed, since the trail was covered in snow and thus nonexistent. After getting "lost" a time or two, we basically improvised our way down the drainage until we found the Thunder Lake trail. We took the shortcut through the campsites and arrived at the trail head a little after 6:00 p.m. Since we still had no cell coverage we hoped the ranger would be home. Alas, no one was home. Philip, however, found the warming hut next door was unlocked...and behold, a telephone! We were able to call Miss Lucy and inform that she needed to pick us up at Wild Basin instead of Glacier Gorge. She found that a bit strange.

This turned out to be one of my all time favorite hike/climbs. It had a bit of everything.

Mr. Jinks

[Mr. Jinks]

Here's an interesting picture I left out:

The couloir and saddle from the summit

[rcw]

Nice report. I like the pictures and your ability to change directions and travel a different path.

[mistylady]

I am exhausted just reading this! Your travels are so beyond me! But, I really enjoyed your report to an area that I will never get to see. Thanks so much for sharing.

[Allie]

Awesome report, Mr. Jinks. You and your son encountered alot of stuff, and plowed on ahead. Loved your photos and videos.

[mwilson]

That looks pretty scary to me. Glad the two of you had such a great climb and day together. Thanks for sharing!

[Becky J.]

What a great climb. You really challenge yourself.
It was great to see the pictures and video.

Becky J.

[iceberg]

Very enjoyable read. Since your descent was through Wild Basin, I'm curious why you chose to go down via Lion Lakes. More familiarity with that particular area?

[zzcoop]

This report was, in a word, amazing. You guys are superhuman. You do know that, right?

[Rhonda]

Love all the different perspectives you show.

[cardinal]

One of my favorite reports! What a journey. The pictures really tell a story.

[HighPlainsMedic]

Now that was a neat trip report, and an amazing feat of strength and endurance... wow..

[Igloo Ed]

Would have loved to been along but I suspect I would have held you back considerably. What a trip though.
The rock fall is amazing. I've been eyeballing that couloir going up Chiefshead and wonder just how this will change the route.